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Posts archive for: February, 2009
  • Parker rescores the 2006 Bordeaux

    Parker has retasted the 2006 vintage, and released his final scores on the wines... and there are plenty of happy people here.

    The best result is probably for Chateau Lafite, who has gone to a 97 up from a 93. The wine of the vintage remains Mouton (that was originally 97-100 and is now a 98+). Pape Clement white also got a final 98 from a possible 97-100.

    Plenty of wines that were given a range of scores ended up at the top of their range, such as Leoville Les Cases at 95 from 93-95, Rauzan Segla at 93 from 90-93, and Chateau d'Issan going up to 94 from an original 90-93.

    The scores suggest again, as has become increasingly apparent with tastings, that the 06 really was an excellent quality vintage that maybe hid its value at first because it followed the 2005. So maybe the Bordelais weren't quite so pig-headed keeping their prices high! But I can't see such glowing results coming next year with the retasting of the 2007s... rapidly becoming the vintage that everyone would like to forget...

    By this I mean that the prices were way too high last year, and because there are stocks left both in Bordeaux and abroad, it is becoming a serious sticking point with the pricing of the 2008s. If the owners do what is right and drop prices this year, despite better quality wines, they make the 07s even more unpalatable to buyers. But if they keep the prices high, they run the risk of having another vintage that sits around in storerooms.

  • Back in sunny Bordeaux...

    Just got back yesterday from the christening in England (cakes, tea and champagne, no Bordeaux wine!). It has suddenly turned into spring here - warm and sunny enough to make all the winemakers I saw today worry about early budding of the vines.

    Have gone straight into holding a two day press course which is always interesting. One of the attendees is from a newly formed negociant company (from 2002) who is working with La Difference brand (fairly big in the UK, although they dont seem to have a website) and sourcing grapes such as Vigonier from the Languedoc to put into a new brand to launch in France (in fact the wine in the bottle will be same as La Difference, but the right to use that name in France has already been taken, so they are rebranding).

    They a developing a number of their own-brand wines also, and are interested in being a 'new style' negociant where things are absolutely transparent between the end client and the wine producer, 'allowing' them to meet and discuss the style of wine that they like directly and not worrying about guarding all the secrets to themselves as too many negociants perhaps do in Bordeaux. The woman who is on the press course has spent the last 20 years living in England and used to work for Direct Wines and Tony Laithwaite. Who I imagine gave her a few ideas about clever business models...

  • 'Audacious' Kiwis beat Bordeaux

    Good story from Beverley Blanning on decanter.com yesterday,
    www.decanter.com/news/277518.html

    What with the French Ministry of Health publishing guidelines which advise, 'The consumption of alcohol, and especially wine, is discouraged', this has been another difficult week for the French team...

    Over to Beverley...
    'Two wines from the tiny Gimblett Gravels area of Hawkes Bay in New Zealand have out-performed Bordeaux wines ten times as expensive.

    Growers challenged the palates of the UK's leading tasters, pitting their wines against top 2005 clarets.

    While the Bordeaux wines gained the most votes overall, two sub-£25 Gimblett Gravels entries made it into the top half, out-performing Château Cos d'Estournel and Vieux Château Certan - wines that retail for ten times the price of the New Zealand wines.

    The judges, who included Jancis Robinson MW, Oz Clarke, Michael Schuster and Neal Martin, were asked to select their top six from 12 anonymously presented wines, of which half came from Gimblett Gravels and half from Bordeaux.

    Commenting on the similarities in the style of the wines, Robinson said, 'It was not obvious which was which.'

    The exercise was called 'audacious' by host and Craggy Range winemaker, Rod Easthope.

    A similar tasting was held in New Zealand in October, led by Australian critic James Halliday and American critic Elin McCoy.

    The panel's selection included four Gimblett Gravels wines in the top six, including the most highly rated wine, Blake Family Vineyards 'Redd Gravels'. This last was not tasted at the recent London event.

    'It was these results that encouraged us to hold the tasting again in London,' Easthope said, 'The message we want to give is that these wines offer classed growth quality at cru Bourgeois prices.'

    The top six wines were:
    Château Lafite-Rothschild 2005, Pauillac
    Château Mouton-Rothschild 2005, Pauillac
    Château Angélus 2005, St-Emilion
    Sacred Hill Helmsman 2006, Gimblett Gravels
    Château Haut-Brion 2005, Pessac-Léognan
    Newton Forrest Cornerstone 2006, Gimblett Gravels '

  • New Courses at the Ecole du Vin

    I received some info about the courses on offer at the Bordeaux Wine School a few days ago, and as one of the wine educators there, I thought I should really put them up here on the blog.

    The courses on offer are for everyone, and comprise in-depth tastings, practical exercisesand visits to Bordeaux's properties.

    Tasting Bordeaux Wines from A to Z (Technical level for beginners)
    Two complete days for a comprehensive review of Bordeaux wines, covering soil types, grape varieties, the classifications and the different appellations of the region. Over thirty wines will be tasted and students can create their own blend. At the end of the first day there is a Wine Tasting Dinner in a château, providing an opportunity to meet the winemakers.
    Price: 350 euros
    Dates: 15-16 May, 16-17 October 2009

    Bordeaux wines explained in the glass! (Practical level)
    Open to those who have completed the Technical level. Over two days students will improve their ability to taste wine; stimulating their senses and enriching their wine tasting vocabulary. The course takes the form of a blind tasting and also teaches the principles of successful food and wine matching.
    Price: 335 euros
    Dates: 17-18 May, 18-19 October 2009

    Discovering the Grands Crus of Bordeaux
    Open to those who have completed the Technical or Practical levels. Travel through Bordeaux?s vineyards over three days and visit four areas: the Médoc, Sauternes, Graves and Saint-Emilion. Students will perfect their knowledge of Bordeaux's classified growths by discovering the origins of the classifications and the appellations. The course includes visits to classified growth properties where students can taste the wines and understand why they are the elite of Bordeaux?s offerings.
    Price: 600 euros
    Dates: 19-21 May 2009

    More info on http://ecole.vins-bordeaux.fr/.

  • Minister for Wine Tourism

    Got an interesting notice from the French Wines Bulletin the other day: that there is to be a new Minister for Wine Tourism in France.

    'On 3 March 2009, the Wine Tourism Council will be officially created under the control of the French Ministry of Agriculture; the Ministry of Culture and Communication; and the Ministry of Tourism. Mr Paul Dubrule, co-founder of Novotel and president of Accor between 1983 and 1997, will be the Council’s president. Dubrule, who owns a vineyard in the Lubéron, will be responsible for putting together a national plan for wine tourism. This will cover five key elements: the creation of a “Vin et Patrimoine” identity; training; information; building a network of key players from the industry; and the creation of a National Award for Wine Tourism.

    Alexandre Lazareff, a former high-ranking civil servant at the Ministry of Finance, and writer and founder of ChâteauOnline, will become General Secretary. Representatives from the different ministries will be part of the Council and Presidents of the following organisations will also take part in the sessions: INAO, Viniflhor, VIF (Vignerons Indépendants de France), CCVF (Confédération des Coopératives Vinicoles de France), Agev (Association Générale des Entreprises Vinicoles), Cniv (Conseil National des Interprofessions Vinicoles), Sopexa, APV (Association de la Presse du Vin), Maison de la France, Odit-France, Gîtes de France, Logis de France, Relais & Château, the Guide Michelin and the main French travel agencies.'

    Whether this will just add more unnecessary layers to getting anything done, or whether it will be a genuinely useful creation, remains to be seen, but it does at least show that wine tourism is increasingly recognised as a crucial part of the wine industry.

  • Dynamic European Producers

    The joy of being in England... particularly when it comes to exploring wines. When I do my wine column from Bordeaux ( http://www.businessdestinations.co.uk/magazine-articles/food-and-wine/ ), it's always a bit of a long process getting the wines sent to me. I decided to do this one from London, as it coincides with Emily's christening on Sunday, and wines are still arriving even two days after the tasting. All you wine writers in England have a shamefully easy time of it!!

    There were many wonderful wines (and the full column will be at the above web address in a month or so), but here are some highlights:

    Vilosell, Tomas Cusiné, Costers del Segre 2006 (£12.50)
    A great label, like a Paul Smith shirt, and definitely a wine where the taste is as exciting as the presentation. Wonderfully fragrant from the first sniff, this comes from a small DO located at 2,300 metres above sea level in the Catalonia region of Spain, Costers del Segre. It was the spot that Tomas Cusiné, a winemaker who has been quietly gaining plaudits over the past 20 years, chose when he decided to found a winery under his own name in 2003. The wine itself has new oak, plenty of vanilla, and it is sweet and smooth but with a really spicy edge. Its silky tannins make it highly easy to drink, without belying the clear quality of the winemaking.

    Podere 414, Morellino di Scansano 2006 (£13.50)
    Podere 414 is an estate that straddles a river in the western part of Tuscany towards the sea and near the town of Scansano, with a rocky soil where pretty much nothing would grow but vines. Owned by Simone Castelli, the son of a well-known Tuscan oenologist, with his wife Mara. Just over 85% Sangiovese (the name of the DOC is in fact a synonym for the grape variety), with the balance made up of Ciliegiolo and Grenache. The first thing that strikes you is the quality of the fruit – this is full of ripe young blackberries and whole clusters of luscious black cherries. The tannins here are very light, so it’s ready to be drunk despite being so young, and at just 13.5% alcohol, a highly seductive wine.

    Martin Codax, Cuatro Pasos, Bierzo 2005 (approx £10)
    A slightly unusual wine from a co-operative cellar in Leon in northwest Spain. Mencia is the indigenous grape variety of the region, and it makes up 100% of this wine, from 80 year old vines set at altitude in the Bierzo mountains. But enough background – this is a wine that you want to get on with drinking, right from the moment you see the distinctive paw prints on the label. It is almost black in colour, and at 14% does pack a punch, but it is so smooth and soft that you barely notice the alcohol. This was again a very popular choice in the tasting, full of rich plums and vanilla from the American oak.

    This last wine was supplied by the lovely Kate Goodman at Reserve Wines, and you can see her talking about it here:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FaVetwTBTww

  • Hello and Goodbye

    Had a very enjoyable lunch yesterday with Stephen Bolger and his family, who have just moved to Bordeaux a few months ago.

    I first heard about Stephen, who is the director of Crushpad Europe (the winemaking company based in Napa that allows anyone to buy a barrel of grapes and guide the winemaking process) when I read on the Despagne blog that they were opening a Bordeaux operation - and I then interviewed him for Decanter.

    Original story here:
    http://www.decanter.com/news/275514.html

    But it is old friends on my mind today, as Sophie Kevany, the wine journalist for AFP who has been living in Bordeaux for the past four years, is off to Lima, Peru. She leaves on Wednesday, but I am off to England this morning, so I won't see her after our quick breakfast today.

    I have loved working with her, and wish her the very best of luck covering the (far more exciting of course!) world of South American wine.

  • A Bordeaux Valentine

    Valentine's Day seems to have made Bordeaux come over all generous...

    I received a call yesterday from Chateau d'Yquem suggesting that I go down to Vinotheque wine shop ( www.la-vinotheque.com ) today, for a 'special surprise'. Not something you resist of course - and it turned out to be a tasting of 1997 Yquem, served with chocolates and foie gras.

    This vintage at Yquem is still really in its infancy, but from the very first nose is opulent and pretty decadent. It was a good year for Sauternes (far better than for Bordeaux reds), and Yquem had its earliest ever harvest beginning on September 4th.

    The wine itself is full of rich citrus, creamy vanilla and truffles, underpinned with lovely swirls of acidity. I was still enjoying the taste of just a small glass a full 15 minutes after I had left the shop. And the tasting wasn't just for journalists - it was open to anyone coming into the shop (and if you are in Bordeaux, goes on until 7pm tonight...)

    Thankyou Yquem!

  • New cellars at Cheval Blanc

    Chateau Cheval Blanc, the Premier Grand Cru Classe A property in Saint Emilion that is jointly owned by Bernard Arnault and Albert Frere, is to build a new winery next year.

    The architect for the project is Christian de Portzamparc, who designed the LVMH Tower in New York and is currently working on the 90,000m2 Cidade de Musica concert hall and opera house in Rio de Janeiro.

    The plans are set to include a new vinification room and winery, a barrel cellar, tasting room and landscaped gardens. The finished project is due to be open for wine tourists.

    Cheval Blanc director Pierre Lurton told me on the phone yesterday, ‘So far we have decided the architect, and are finalising the plans over the next few months, but will not begin construction until 2010 or 2011. But we know that it will be very contemporary, and quite unlike anything else in Saint Emilion today. We are not making a technical installation, but a workshop for the creation of our wine, something very elegant, fully integrated into the surrounding landscape.’

  • Chateau Beychevelle wins the Golden Secateurs

    Not sure if you followed the most camp story of the week on Decanter last Friday, about the pruning competition in the Medoc, but I thought I should bring you the results...

    Original story here - www.decanter.com/news/276552.html

    The results were sent to me yesterday, and I am pleased to announce that Chateau Beychevelle has this year the best pruning team in the Medoc.

    Les_concurrents_Lafite_07-02-09_003

    The finals of the Medoc Inter-Chateaux Pruners Challenge was held on Saturday February 7 at Chateau Lafite Rothschild. Each competitor had 30 minutes to prune 20 vines according to strict regulations, and then had a theory test... and just as with the first two heats, Chateau Beychevelle won the group heat.

    In the individual challenge, Manuel dos Santos of Château Lafite Rothschild came out top with 175.25 points out of a possible 190, clearly milking the home advantage. He got to win a magnum of Lafite 1993 and of course the Golden Secateurs. But in this section also, when looking at overall points of the three heats, Gilles Fontalirand of Beychevelle won this too... despite finishing a palty 13th on Saturday...

  • First Look: Berrys The Firm

    I watched a preview copy of The Firm last night, the first episode of the new BBC three-part series on wine that begins next Monday, February 16.

    It was a look at the wine firm of Berry Bros and Rudd, following them through a year as they worked with Bordeaux and Burgundy (who together make up over 80% of Berry's total turnover).

    It was definitely very interesting, and should be required viewing in Bordeaux as a lesson in just how easy it is to characicature this region, often very unfairly. But they don't help themselves...

    A bit like Mondovino with Aimé Guibert vs Michel Rolland, the object seems to be to contrast the artisinal, rustic nature of Burgundy against the materialistic, business-like focus of Bordeaux.

    Simon Staples at Berrys says, 'The chateaux like to think that we are the bad guys trying to drive down prices, but we're not, we just want to get to prices that will sell.'

    A good example of this is given. Jean Guillaume Prats of Cos D'Estournel is shown working out his 2007 prices. Staples is telling his team that they could sell the wine if it is released at 30 euros, and the next scene goes to Prats releasing at 65 euros. Staples then buys just ten cases (despite Berrys having bought Cos right back to the 19th century) because 'the price is wrong, the timing is wrong...'.

    Poor old Prats is also filmed in a full suit and tie regalia saying, 'we (Bordelaise) are farmers' while looking anything but - but he does come across very well in a blind tasting held at Berrys in London, as the only one around the table to even vaguely get the provenance and age of the wine right.

    Fascinating viewing...

  • Fires in the Yarra Valley

    Impossible to write a wine blog today and not mention Australia. Of course there are far worse things that vines being destroyed, but the Yarra Valley has been badly affected. This is painful reading.

    This is from The Age newspaper in Melbourne.

    http://www.theage.com.au/national/wine-region-feels-blast-of-raging-inferno-20090208-8119.html?page=-1

    THE Yarra Valley wine region was all police roadblocks and smouldering land yesterday.

    Locals told of a fierce, unpredictable fire that raced down hills and up gullies destroying homes, schools, farm sheds and vineyards.

    For Karen Mitchell, of Steels Creek, returning to her burnt-out home at 3 o'clock on Sunday morning was "like a scene from Armageddon".

    "There were different-sized flames, red and orange, dancing around the sky," she said.

    Hours earlier Mrs Mitchell's life had perhaps been saved when police turned her around at a fork in the road just before the fire swept over a ridge and set about razing properties.

    Despite losing her home and all the sentimental things such as her children's baby clothes and wedding pictures, she realised others had been dealt worse hands.

    "There are still families unaccounted for," she said.

    The true extent of the damage to small Yarra Valley communities such as Steels Creek, Dixons Creek and Chum Creek was impossible to tell yesterday, with many of the roads leading to the towns — and to some of Victoria's best-known wineries — now declared "crime scenes" by local police.

    "It's so ravaged up there. There's still people missing," said one officer pointing to the upper Yarra Valley.

    Dozens of houses are believed to have been destroyed at Steels Creek, Dixons Creek, Chums Creek and elsewhere through the Yarra Valley.

    The Yarra Glen CFA confirmed the Roundstone winery and bistro at Yarra Glen had been gutted. Nearby, the Sticks winery had rows of blackened vines.

    Greg Wallace, of Chums Creek, told how he and his brothers used 19,000 litres of tank water to keep 30-metre-high flames from enveloping his house.

    At 7 o'clock on Saturday night, after getting his wife, children and dogs to safety, Mr Wallace had his first encounter with the fire lighting up the massive gum trees across the road from his house.

    It returned at 4am on Sunday far fiercer and nearer to his home. "It was a pretty scary sight at night," he said.

    Mid-afternoon yesterday flames still crackled in the trees around Mr Wallace's house, the danger evident in the regular sound of gum trees crashing to earth nearby.

    Also in Chum Creek, neighbours Tom Neesham and Mark Poole had managed to fit seven children and an elderly woman in one car to take them to safety as the fire seemed to roar from nowhere on Saturday evening.

    "I'd promised a friend who was at a wedding that I'd look out for his sister and the kids," Mr Neesham said.

    "I've never seen kids projectile vomit from fear before but that's what they were doing. They were saying, 'We don't want to die'."

    His fellow rescuer, Mr Poole, told of being bitten by one of the children's ferrets. "The boy was not going to leave without his cage of ferrets so they had to squeeze in too," he said.

    Amid the ruined houses, dead livestock and fallen power lines across the Yarra Valley, there were isolated tales of good fortune.

    None more than at the Yering Station winery, which resembled an oasis in the middle of a charred landscape, something saved only by an act of God.

    As flames scorched the roads at its side on Saturday night, the winery played host to a wedding party of 112 guests.

    By the time a bus arrived to evacuate them, the roads had been blocked. It was decided that it was safer to proceed with the wedding, with the barrel cellar a final point of refuge if things got desperate.

    "They had a burning love for one another," the manager of internal operations Trevor Stewart dryly remarked of the bride and groom yesterday.

    Sheridan Morris, the assistant hospitality manager, told of watching smoke billow from the Gruyere area and then the Christmas Hills. "It was very scary, I couldn't see the Yarra Ranges because of the smoke," she recalled. Eventually the reception was cut short at 11.30, because nearby pines were under severe ember attack.

    Nearby Chateau Yering had run out of tank water, so the chefs worked a second shift, pouring buckets of water over the embers. "We just ran on adrenalin," Ms Morris said. "I knew that when the sun came up the whole Yarra Valley was going to be black."

    At Domaine Chandon winery, estate director Bernie Wood was relieved to see the vines had suffered only minor damage while nearby plantations were destroyed. He praised staff for putting out spot fires.

    "We lost a couple of rows of vines. A little bit of chardonnay and shiraz," Mr Wood said. "For what it could have been we are pleasantly surprised."

  • The Harvest Widows Syndrome

    Had dinner last night with Jon Dowson, a very nice English guy who is out here for three months working with Direct Wines in Castillon (and who also owns his own Spanish estate Little House Wine, or La Casita - more in a minute on that). He had an excellent theory on marriage in the wine industry that I thought I should share.

    In the 'wider' population, divorce rates peak in January, after an extended family christmas together when people really just how objectionable their partner really is (isn't January 12 D-day for divorce? The single day lawyers receive the most requests for a separation...). Anyway, in the wine industry, apparently divorce rates peak in October, after the harvest.

    This is the Vintage Widows, or Harvest Widows syndrome, when wives have had four or five weeks of the husband (usually, but I'm sure it works both ways) being away constantly working the harvest, and they realise just how much better life is without them... Jon says he has lost two girlfriends to the Syndrome...

    Which seems a bit of an oversight of the women concerned, I would say, as he makes an excellent Spanish wine (I tried a bottle of the 2005 last week).

    From the Arribes region (which is now a DO as of 2007). The area has excellent levels of sunlight and temperature that make it a high quality red growing area, with low humidity that means organic/low spray vineyard management can work well. It also has a number of indigenous grape varieties that Jon uses in the wine, mixed with Tempranillo.

    Over to Jon to describe them:
    'Juan Garcia: the most dominant variety in Arribes. Cherry and summer fruit. Very flexible variety that can make young fruity wines or quality characterful crianzas.
    Rufete: Excellent nose and darker more savioury palate flavours - ages very well.
    Brunal: Fantastic small berry variety that produces big tannins and with age complex notes. Highly promising.
    Tempranillo also does well in Arribes, although we see the future of the region with blends of the indigenous three varieties, using Tempranillo only in years where it has has done well, or one of the indigenous has not faired so well.'

    www.lacasita-wine.com

  • Bordeaux takes to the seas

    The update of the Carbon Initiative took place yesterday in Bordeaux Lac (the conference area of the city, where Vinexpo is held in June), setting out ideas of how to reduce the carbon emmissions of the local wine industry by 75% by the year 2050.

    More concretely, the immediate plans are to reduce emissions by 20% by 2020 (something which, apparently, Sweden has already managed to achieve since implementing a similar programme a few years ago).

    Among the many ideas was the resurrection of the use of boats for delivering wine, rather than airplanes and road transport as are currently used. Sea transport is most energy-efficient over long distances (saving around 6 times the carbon emissions of a truck). Around 40% of Bordeaux wine is exported, and of the amount that goes outside of Europe, only 10% currently uses sea transport as a means of delivery, so there is room for improvement.

    The romantic era of wine being shipped out from the quays of Chartrons is of course no longer a reality - but apparently you can load a 'navette' from the Bassins a Flot area in central Bordeaux which will then take your wine palettes up to the main Port de Bordeaux which is located at Le Verdon at the tip of the Medoc peninsula.

    Could be an interesting marketing exercise for someone (remember Languedoc wines did something similar last year?) - but there seems to be a major drawback to the whole of the carbon initiative. Everything that was suggested yesterday is voluntary. There will be no fines, or no changes to the AOC-certificate or quality rules that will insist winemakers save on energy, recycle etc etc. They say this is because it is impossible to force people, and that there are so many winemakers here with different financial realities, and I can of course see their point, but to reduce emissions by 75%, it is going to need more than just a few gentle suggestions.

  • Chateau Serilhan teams up with Hubert de Bouard

    Saint Estephe property Chateau Serilhan, owned by the very personable Didier Marcelis, has gone up in the world.

    For the past six years, Serilhan's consultant has been Olivier Dauga (read about him here www.newbordeaux.com/documents/olivier_dauga.html ), who is certainly fast-rising, but not yet well known internationally.

    He has just, as of this week, signed a new partnership with Hubert de Bouard, the owner of Chateau Angelus in Saint Emilion and wine consultant for leading properties such as Chateau La Pointe, Chateau de Fieuzel and Chateau Pichon Lalande.

    De Bouard is known for his light touch, and respect of elegance in wines, and has received widespread praise for the changes he has brought in at Chateau de Fieuzel in particular, which was seen as one of the wines of the vintage in Pessac Leognan last year. Serilhan may be hoping for a similar rise in profile - since Marcelis took over the family property in 2003 (from a previous career as a management consultant with Cisco Systems), he brought all the winemaking inhouse (it was previously vinified through a wine cooperative), and set about meticulously raising standards. Which may well just be about to get even higher.

    www.chateau-serilhan.fr

  • Lucien Freud designs Mouton Rothschild 06 label

    Lucien Freud is the latest artist to take up the tradition of designing the wine label for Chateau Mouton Rothschild (two years ago, for the 2004 vintage, it was another Brit - a watercolour by Prince Charles!).

    mouton 06

    The press release says, 'Baroness Philippine de Rothschild, the owner of Mouton, has given the commission for the 2006 vintage to the British painter Lucian Freud, born in 1922, a universally
    acknowledged master of contemporary portraiture. In 2008, one of his works was sold for the highest price ever attained by a living artist. Far from the tormented portraits and nudes for which he is renowned, for Mouton 2006 Lucian Freud has chosen a joyously exotic transposition of the pleasure of drinking, in which the vinestock is transformed into a springing palm tree and the winelover into a happily anticipatory zebra.'

  • Small vineyard in heart of Haut Brion to produce its own wine

    I wrote this story for Decanter yesterday, but thought it was worth reprinting here, as it promises to be a very interesting wine to discover this year.

    I wrote yesterday that it was 1.3 hectares by the way - perhaps in London they know something I don't, as it has been changed to 3 hectares...or perhaps they mean 3 acres, I will check with Adam this morning.

    http://www.decanter.com/news/276245.html

    'A small vineyard in the middle of the Haut Brion domaine is to begin bottling its own wines.

    Domaine de la Passion Haut Brion is a 3-hectare parcel of vines situated in the heart of the Haut Brion vineyard.

    From 1954 to 1978, the property bottled under its own name, but for the past 30 years, the grapes – planted to 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon – have been going into Haut Brion wines under a cropshare agreement.

    Now Michel Allary, the current owner of the domaine, has decided to begin once again producing his own wine, and will be releasing around 2,400 bottles from the 2008 vintage.

    He has engaged consultant Stephane Derenoncourt.

    Louis Fournier, Allary's business partner, said, 'Above all this was a personal family decision, as Dr Allary has a daughter, who in turn has a son, who is very interested in winemaking.

    'And of course the commercial possibilities of the property are very interesting. Dr Allary was born and brought up on the property, and has been very close to the [Haut Brion managers] Delmas family for many years – he has a great understanding of the terroir here.'

    A winery with an underground cellar is currently under construction, and will be ready for the 2009 vintage. The wine will be entirely distributed through negotiants.

    Chateau Haut Brion was not available for comment.

  • Bordeaux winemakers on Channel M, Manchester

    I managed to find the link which has Kate Goodman, owner of Reserve Wines, talking about having the visit from the winemakers last Thursday. You get to see all of them lined up outside the shop, aswell as Patrick Carteyon of Chateau Penin doing some tasting.

    http://www.channelm.co.uk/programmes/index/0/3/channel_m_news.html

    (you need RealPlayer to watch this, should be a direct link, but if not go to News and scroll down to Bordeaux in Manchester).

    If you really want to overdose on the media we got on the trip, I am also on BBC Radio Manchester talking about the winemakers (also talking about my move from Manchester to Bordeaux and becoming a wine writer... I have to admit that it was a bit of a circuitous route from manchester to bordeax, having taken in several stops and several years on the way, but that bit was glossed over...)

    It was on the Becky Want afternoon show last Thursday, January 29, (go to 1 hr 47 mins into the show)

    http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/p0020v1j/Becky_Want_29_01_2009/

    Finally, one of the people who came to the public tasting on Thursday night at Apotheca spoke about it afterwards. Thanks Dave, and here is the clip: http://daveac.blip.tv/file/1720354

  • Berry Bros: The Firm on TV

    Tomorrow night sees the first programme in the BBC’s new series, ‘Wine: The Firm’, based around the UK’s oldest wine merchant Berry Bros. & Rudd.

    Apparantly the programme follows Berrys’ buyers Jasper Morris MW and Simon Staples around their daily routines over a year, and particularly how they work with the winemakers and chateaux owners of Burgundy and Bordeaux.

    As Simon has often provided me with some great quotes for articles, I am looking forward to seeing him on this - and of course it is also good to see wine getting some primetime tv space, even if on a less popular channel. The press release promises 'From the unassuming winemaker David Clarke of the small village of Morey-Saint-Denis, in Burgundy, to the wily General Manager of Chateau Cos d'Estournel, Jean-Guillaume Prats, – one of Bordeaux’s premium chateaux, the programme explores the eccentric and compelling world of wine.'

    ‘Wine: The Firm’ will be aired on BBC Four on Monday February 16th 2009 at 9pm.

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