Another gorgeous weekend has passed in Bordeaux, and winemakers are starting to hope this vintage has some surprises up its sleeve (not great forecast from tomorrow however...)

Interesting vintage assessment from David Pernet at Sovivan (an oenologist group in the Graves that consults all over Bordeaux). I received this from Anne Francoise Quie at Chateau Rauzan Gassies in Margaux. It runs to over 3,000 words, so am picking out highlights for you here:

'The 2008 vintage has yo-yoed between periods of wet and dry weather. Particularly abundant wet periods until the end of June meant that mildew was even worse during 2008 than 2007, which we had already thought was the worst in living memory. Mother Nature tested the nerves of winemakers even more by adding to the mildew a flowering that was particularly difficult with the merlot, which meant that the fruit set was very uneven.'

'We are barely exaggerating when we say that there have been fewer merlot grapes produced in 2008 than in the past 30 years in Bordeaux. Thankfully, the cabernets have done much better and their flowering was much more even.'

'July allowed us to hope once again as there was a record lack of rain (water). Things seemed like they were heading to a new 2000 vintage, until August 9, when storms accelerated the veraison (colour change) but swelled the berries.'

'In recent years, only 2002 has been so cool during the growing season.'

'After the mildrew, rot from mid August onwards became a high risk. Until mid-September, even the most early ripening merlots needed an extra 15 days on the vine than in a typical year. This of course had a direct impact on the maturity of the berries, particularly meaning low alcohol levels, high acidity, and high malic acid, often over 3g/l in merlot. The lower temperatures could mean approximataely a ripening at least 14 days later than the average of the last nine vintages.'

'The frequency of wet weather and therefore its effects on the vines was worse than 2007; double the average, comparable to 1992 and three times higher than 2003 and 2006.'

'By the end of September, the best balanced vines showed phenolic indices at a record level while the sugar levels were good and acidity still very high. The base materials are good, but still rustic, and the 2008 vintage, still with good potential, will be absolute proof of the necessity to hold your nerves until the very end.'

'The whites are very encouraging, many were still on the vines by the end of September and all the better for it! Like the reds, they have good acidity levels matched by intense aromatic qualities particularly in the sauvignon. Winemakers needed to be very vigilant not to get harsh tannins from the skins during maceration. There again, the best vines were well-balanced, well aerated and were carefully trimmed of excess leaf cover to avoid any health risks in eary Septmeber. The 2008 whites, well looked after, will stand easily besides the great 2007 vintage.'

'Thanks to the Indian summer, warm terroirs on gravel outcrops, both on the Right and Left Bank, will have the advantage over cooler terroirs because they will allow the production of ‘less rustic’ wines.'

'Despite a genuine quality potential, 2008 is the opposite of an ‘armchair’ vintage. Winemakers needed, this year, to be interventionist.'

'To achieve well-balanced vines, it was essential to trim the leaves regularly and maximise the aeration of the grapes until the harvest.'

'Right from the beginning of April, the vines growth cycle was slow. A lack of intense summer heat simply reinforced this early pattern. To fully develop the phenolic potential of the skin and to allow the aromatic precursors to develop to their full potential meant the need for great patience this year. Adult vines of merlot should really not have begun before Septeber 29 in almost all regions.'

'Even more than in 2007, in white as in red, the most patient winemakers who have been the most careful about garding health in the vineyard will be the best rewarded.'