Very interesting conversation with Yves Le Pin, sommelier at Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, about the effect the financial crisis is having on London restaurants. ‘It is not any easy time for anyone. We still having customers in the restaurant of course, but are struggling a little from the financial difficulties that everyone is facing.'

'We are selling a lot more terroir-wines. People want to spend money on something that will give them pleasure without the price tag, and are really asking sommeliers for advice, not just buying by brand or label as they may have done previously.'

'Now they are looking for good value wines that are just as wonderful. Average spend maybe £50 or £60, where it may have been £100 plus a few months ago. The average bottle spend has maybe dropped 40 or 50% over the past six months. Still have big spenders of course, but less than usual.'

'Even second wines of the top estates are very expensive. So I am not looking for those, rather for third wines, such as Pauillac from Latour which is an outstanding wine. I am looking for quality wine producers but for bottles they make that can be priced at under £70. Some second wines of smaller chateaux such as Angelus are wonderful, but even those are £100. Looking more at biodynamic producers, such as Domaine Gramenon in Cotes du Rhone, who makes fabulous wines that are all under £65 on our menu.

'This is an interesting time for the customers to rediscover smaller appellations - St Aubin instead of Mersault for example. Bordeaux is definitely the most affected. Parker and Michel Rolland wines are just too expensive right now for most people. But this is a great opportunity for small producers who produce excellent wines. In restaurants it is quite easy to try these because there are sommeliers helping you out – it is less easy in supermarkets.'