Unless the wine industry starts preparing an organised response, they might well sleepwalk into having the internet be a completely no-go area for advertising, selling or even talking about their product.

Incredible as it seems, the French government seems ready to make it an offense to make any mention of wine on the internet. Why they want to hamstring the industry in one of the biggest opportunities that exists, in a time when the French wine industry is experiencing more and more pressure and competition internationally really is a complete mystery... but that seems to be the reality.

Full details are in this news story, from decanter today
http://www.decanter.com/news/264157.html

Details of proposed new laws that put alcohol on the same level as pornography, and would effectively ban wine on the internet in France, were leaked to members of the press yesterday.

The document, which suggests that wine and alcohol sites be authorised but limited to certain hours – similar to pornographic sites, has been described as 'disastrous' by members of the wine sector.

Furthermore, proposals offered by the government workgroup said that wine advertising could only be limited to producer websites, essentially blocking all third-party publicity.

'The proposition forbids publicity on the web,' said Delphine Blanc of Vin et Sociétié, one of few groups lobbying for the internet to be legalised as a medium for alcohol publicity. 'It authorizes sites, during certain hours, and publicity on those sites, but forbids any [outside] publicity about those sites so they are dead.'

The workgroup, headed by public law specialist Professor Antoine Louvaris, say the proposals are aimed at protecting minors.

Blanc, however, said that it was inacceptable that a government-appointed group, of which Vin et Sociétié is a member, had met only once. The group is charged with drawing up new clauses pertaining to the strict Evin law of 1991 which regulates alcohol and tobacco advertising.

'The text we have seen is not what we were hoping for,' said Blanc.

Damien Bonnabel of blog and search engine site, Findawine.com, said the people involved in drawing up the law had little knowledge of the internet.

'We are really very worried about these proposals,' he said. 'They suggest the people who are drafting them are totally ignorant about the realities of the web.'

Bonnabel also said the issue of legalising wine on the web was aggravated by the disorganised response of the wine sector – in contrast to the efficient anti-alcohol lobby.

Bonnabel has formed an association called Vin et Internet (Wine and Web) to protest against the proposed measure. The group is proposing alternative web laws, which include the prohibition of alcohol publicity on sports and youth-oriented sites.

The French government has refused to issue a statement, saying it 'will not comment on a work in progress'.

Citadelle de Blaye listed as a World Heritage Site by Unesco (from www.winealley.com)

The World Heritage Committee of Unesco put its name to to the network of major sites in Vauban, which includes the famous Citadelle de Blaye. Built by Ferri, around the old fortified town, the Citadelle de Blaye was renovated by Vaubab between 1686 and 1689.With the valorisation of the citadel, which has always been its hallmark, the ‘Premières Côtes de Blaye’ hopes to profit from a regain of visibility and notoriety. Like Saint-Emilion, which saw a 20% increase in tourist visits in the year after it was listed as a World Heritage Site and which now offers a number of wine tourism locations, les Premières Côtes de Blaye is expecting to profit from the media attention in order to develop wine tourism. All the more so because la Citadelle has a rare and precious thing at its centre; a small section of land (720 feet) which produces on average 1000 bottles of Premières Côtes de Blaye each year. The Echauguette vineyard (situated near the tower of the same name) attracts numerous novices who are keen to help with harvesting.

Last week, the father of the Lafragette family, Jean Paul Lafragette (Chateau Loudenne, Chateau de Rouillac, the Alize cocktail) was found guilty of fraud and imprisoned. He was first remanded in custody for two days in Bordeaux, but has now been moved on a more permanent basis up to Angouleme jail.

Full story:
http://www.decanter.com/news/262731.html

The threat of imprisonment has been hanging over him now for at least a year - but the bigger story in Bordeaux itself is what happens now to his family. His two daughters, particularly Florence Lafragette, is well known in the region and beyond. Young and pretty, she hosts a regional TV programme bringing the nuances of Bordeaux to the masses, and is a member of the Bordeaux Oxygene group of young winemakers (who I have written about on several occasions here).

This must be devastating for her - and I heard today from a friend who works with the family that she has left Bordeaux, moved up to Paris, and accepted a job in the cosmetics industry.

Chateau de Rouillac has already been sold (to a French family, but no deatils as to who yet), and Chateau Loudenne is apparently on the market.

A pretty horrible (end? chapter?) to what has been a very successful Bordeaux family.

Okay, so just to add another level of confusion to Saint Emilion (see previous blog entries, last week), the government has just come out with a stop-gap measure, released on July 9 2008, that allows chateaux to write « grand cru classé » and « premier grand cru classé » on their labels for harvests from 2006 and up to 2009, as long as they had those classifications in the previous, 1996 classification.

This will hold true (apparently) until a new classification can be done, expected in 2009 or 2010.

For me, this again punishes those who worked hard and were promoted in 2006, and allows those ones who lost their classification to keep using the label.

But I guess it's a step forward for the majority of chateaux, and lessens the negative impact of last week's decision from a commercial point of view.

Good old Bordeaux (France)... never happier than when turning a simple decision into a mass of bureaucracy...

Stuck for what to do this summer? I think I might have found the most glamorous way to spend a weekend...

Krug champagne has launched a 'luxury camping experience' in Reims, and it really sounds rather good! A tasting I went to last year of Krug Clos de Mesnil 1996 was one of the highlights of my tasting life (honestly, just amazing, uplifting champagne. Other highlights include any year of Pingus, plus a Lafite 1990 while sitting next to Baron Eric, and just possibly for sheer pleasure a Two Paddocks Pinot Noir). While I can't imagine they pop open a Clos de Mesnil for all their campers, any bottle of Krug is worth a trip.

From the press release:
this ultimately stylish camping alternative is a far cry from muddy fields, long queues for food, and and "roughing it". A new interpretation of the ultimate travel offering in champagne country, Krug is now offering a bespoke luxury camping experience consisting of fine details and craftsmanship to reflect and celebrate the skill involved in the creation of their Grande Cuvée - a unique blend of over 40 wines fermented over 6 years.

The house of Krug is drawing on the artisanal mastery of Charles Preston of LPM Bohemia to showcase the philosophy of discernment and individuality of the brand through his bespoke tents or 'Yurts'. Set in the stunning grounds of the Clos de Mesnil in Reims, in one of their most historic vineyards, established in 1698, guests will be greeted by the amazing grandeur of the bespoke onion domed 'Grand Pavilion'. Paying homage to environmental concerns and seeking to create a completely organic structure, the lavish main tent is made entirely from natural products and is the hub of the experience where guests can congregate to dine and be entertained by talented musician and famous actress Tallulah Riley.

A bespoke menu has been designed and will be executed by critically acclaimed chef and owner of Wahaca, Thomasina Miers. Famed for the locality and provenance of her menus, Thomasina has composed a three-course dining experience to beautifully reflect the notes of Krug's Grande Cuvée and the earthy outdoor occasion which campers will enjoy in the Pavilion's decadent and intimate setting. Bubbles and chiles make for a spicy affair!

To further the uncompromising excellence of the Yurts adventure, guests are led to the exquisite bedroom tents stationed in the beautiful wooded area away from the Grand Pavilion. The lavishly decorated suites continue to highlight the brand ethos of individuality, style and excellence. Old Krug barrels holding porcelain sinks are used as wash stations aside a luxurious four-poster bed, Georgian chest of drawers and chairs will offer the guests the ultimate in outdoor relaxation.

Stemming from the house of Krug in 1843, Grande Cuvée perfectly highlights the brand's ethos of unswerving determination to set the standard of excellence with an element of surprise.

Six generations on, the Krug family still personify this unrivalled brilliance. With each generation the House of Krug descendants build a unique 'memory bank' of tastes and savoir-faire, references which perpetuate the inimitable Krug style. Krug now brings to you with this once-in-a lifetime camping experience.

The Krug Yurts will be stationed in Reims, France over July 2008.

The package will be available to consumers this summer.

Received this press release today, and it is worth reprinting in in full...

Wine prices must be set by market, not neighbour

The market must set wine prices, not the neighbouring chateaux, said Guillaume Halley, owner of Bordeaux’s Chateau La Dauphine, in an interview this week.
“Each chateaux should know its own market, they must talk to their clients and to their negociants (wine merchants) and they must stop looking at the prices of their neighbours, ” Halley said.
Halley’s criticism of chateaux pricing policy follows a generally dismal 2007 wine futures* campaign where many chateaux failed to lower their prices enough to interest buyers.
“Only a few chateaux like Talbot, Beychevelle, Leoville Barton and Pavie Macquin really managed to set their prices in accordance with the market,” Halley said.
“Yes, they might lose a bit of money one year, but what they gain is a reputation for being good wines that have a reasonable pricing policy. And that counts for a lot.”
“The fact that negociants were forced to sell 2007 wines at less than the recommended retail price (the price, set by chateaux owners, at which Bordeaux negociants are expected to sell to wholesale buyers) is a clear signal of pricing gone wrong.”
Halley, who bought Chateau La Dauphine in Bordeaux’s Fronsac area in 2000, is also the wine buyer for his Champion supermarket in Bordeaux.
This year Halley, who believes many Bordeaux producers still need to come to terms with the fact that wine is not above simple market forces, continued to stand by his own policies, lowering the ex-chateau price for the 2007 Chateau La Dauphine vintage from 7.40 euro for the 2006 vintage en primeur, to 7.10 euro per bottle for the 2007 vintage.

www.chateau-dauphine.com.
* Bordeaux wine futures, or primeurs, are wines that are sold direct from the barrel, two years prior to bottling and retail sales.

As I wrote a few weeks ago, Sylvie Cazes' (sister of Jean Michel Cazes at Chateau Lynch Bages) new role as president of the Union de Grand Crus Classes has been confirmed (a week ago now, that's having new baby for you, sorry!). I went to a dinner at the Fete du Vin last weekend (450,000 people in Bordeaux for the wine festival, a really wonderful weekend) and saw Sylvie.

She said she was, 'very excited, but slightly nervous' at the task ahead. It's the first time that the UGC has had a woman as its president, but as my neighbour from a Margaux chateau at the dinner said, 'the question isn't whether a man or a woman can better run the organisation, but what is the professionalism of that person? With Sylvie, we are getting one of the best professionals in Bordeaux.'

She tells me that she wants to concentrate on enlarging the public tastings run internationally by the UGC, and on getting more useful economic information out to the property owners within the UGC, so they can have a better overview of existing and emerging opportunities in world markets.

It will definitely be interesting to watch over the next few months to see what changes she brings in.

Two good queries in response to my last post, so I thought I would write a bit more on Saint Emilion.

Firstly, sorry if you can't go through to the Wine Spec article, should have thought about it being subscription only. I did pick out the first paragraph, which I thought gave a neat explanation of what happened, but let me elaborate...

Basically, the 2006 version of the classification (which is redone every 10 years and has been since the 1950s) was called into question by four properties who had been demoted. The case has since been in and out of court, first with the classification being suspended, and then with it being reinstituted while the investigations continued. Last week's decision to formally annul the ranking, though, is supposedly final (although Saint Emilion has two months in order to appeal).

It is very confusing for everyone, but as it stands today, all mentions of Grand Cru Classe (NOT Grand Cru) must be taken off the labels. As most properties are now bottling their 2006s, they must decide whether to comply or not immediately, or risk a fine and wait until next year to remove the mention.

What happens now is anyone's guess... but I definitely wouldn't want to be one of the four chateau owners going out for their morning paper in St Emilion village.

The fallout from the annulment of the Saint Emilion classification is going to be pretty severe. At the moment, the chateaux are having to change the labels on all of their 2006 wines, to take off cru classe mentions. A few are saying that are keeping it on and will face the fines.

Bordeaux negociants are already reporting dismay from English wine merchants, and added to the 2007 prices, it is doing more to put people off buying Bordeaux. But there is a bright side - the 2006 are going to become very attractive if they are the last cru classe labels for the forseeable future.

Here is a roundup of various news sources talking about what has happened:

from Wine Spectator: http://www.winespectator.com/Wine/Features/0,1197,4473,00.html

Château owners in St.-Emilion need to order new wine labels, just as they are preparing to bottle their 2006 wines. The administrative court of Bordeaux struck down the Right Bank appellation's classification system on July 1, which means any wines from 2006 or later cannot be labelled as Grand Cru Classé or Premier Grand Cru Classé. Château Ausone's ranking is no different from any other estate

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/france/2236807/Bordeaux-wines-'demoted'-by-French-court.html"

And a few choice reactions, reported in the Telegraph: It's an aberration to condemn the classification over so little," said Nicolas Thienpont, owner of Chateau Pavie-Macquin, recently awarded the second highest rank of St Emilion premier grand cru classé.

"All those who have worked so hard to move up the rankings are being told today: 'sorry, because of four imbeciles who don't agree with it, we will cancel everything'," he said.