Firstly, a very good roundup from Robert Joseph in today's Guardian on what will happen to grape varieties in the wake of global warming... (( didnt see him in Barcelona, but unless this has been ghost written, it seems like he was there) http://lifeandhealth.guardian.co.uk/drink/story/0,,2261841,00.html
But back in Bordeaux, more behind-the-scenes machinations, this time in the small world of Bordeaux sweet wines.
There are only a few sweet wine appellations in Bordeaux - Sauternes being, of course the most famous, but there's also Barsac, Cadillac, Côtes de Bordeaux-Saint-Macaire, Graves Supérieurs, Cérons, Sainte-Croix-du-Mont, Loupiac.
But apparently beng small in number hasn't led to a sense of solidarity - I was told recently by Nathalia Lescellier at Chateau Perayne (in Saint Macaire) that Sauternes is asking for Saint Macaire to be excluded from the Syndicate of Golden Wines of BOrdeaux. They applied to INAO, lodging an application in December, apparently disgruntled that its quality isn't sufficient to be judged alongside the likes of Sauternes.
Nathalia said, 'We might not be as well known as Sauternes, but we have a different, lighter style that many people like. It's fresher, less sticky, and for many it's a more modern style of dessert wine.'
The wines of Saint Macaire don't have to be 100% botrytised (from noble rot grapes), but that's not apparently a reason given by its more famous sister. It is more to do with the fact that they are geographically distinct from the rest of the wines.
Unfortunately their response to this has been somewhat muted, preferring apparently to hide that this is even happening, when surely the little known Saint Macaire has just been handed a fantastic 'Save our sweet wines' marketing opportunity???
