Just continuing from the other day. Bordeaux Oxygene is a good idea that can easily stall if they don't find a different way to appoach the problem of consumers being bored and/or confused by bordeaux.
They had a tasting planned in London last month which they cancelled, because they didn't feel they had a solid enough idea to get the right levels of press, and I think they were quite right to do so. But they need to come up with something fast before everyone loses interest.
My suggestion would be to take their idea to an international level - not just to talk about their own passion and fresh ideas, but to link with other young wine producers from their 'competitor' countries, such as California and Australia, and do joint tastings, technical workshops / days on vineyard techniques / blending /food and wine matching / wine and music etc.
Works for both, as Bordeaux needs to be seen as more international, while many new world countries are developing the idea of terroir and regional differentiation - something that bordeaux is more than expert on!
The combination would be far more likely to get press attention, and to tap into the newer younger wine drinking demographic that everyone is talking about (the 'second babyboomers' as they were described in a US poll the other week - biggest boom in young wine drinkers since the 60s).
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fresh air?
Bordeaux Oxygene
I'm going to write about this at more length soon, but this group has been getting a lot of press attention since its launch in December - a group of young (that means under 35) winemakers who are all friends, and who want to promote this idea of a 'new bordeaux' without the stuffiness and inaccessibility of their parents.
Bordeaux Oxygène has the following members:
Juliette Bécot, Château Joanin Bécot, Côtes de Castillon
Jean-Jacques Bonnie and Séverine Bonnie, Château Malartic-Lagravière, Pessac-Léognan
Jean-Baptiste Bourotte, Clos du Clocher, Château Bonalgue, Pomerol
Alice Cathiard-Tourbier, Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan
Mathieu Chadronnier, Château Marsau, Côtes de Francs
Matthieu Cuvelier, Château Clos Fourtet, Saint Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classé
Marie and Sylvie Courselle, Château Thieuley, Bordeaux Supérieur
Coralie de Boüard, Château Angélus, Saint Emilion 1er Grand Cru Classé
Basaline Despagne – Thibault Despagne, Château Tour de Mirambeau, Bordeaux Supérieur
Erwan Flageul, Château Brillette, Moulis-en-Médoc
Caroline Frey, Château La Lagune, Haut-Médoc Grand Cru Classé
Eloïse Heeter-Tari, Château Nairac, Sauternes Cru Classé
Edouard Labruyère, Château Rouget, Pomerol
Florence Lafragette, Château Loudenne, Médoc
Jean-Christophe Mau, Château Preuillac, Médoc
Jean-Antoine Nony, Château Grand Mayne, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé
Stéphanie Rolland-Lesage, Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol
Jérôme Tourbier, Les Sources de Caudalie – Hôtel, Restaurant, SPA
Benoit Trocard, Clos Dubreuil, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, Clos de la Vieille Eglise, Pomerol
Buying international wine
Another problem in bordeaux, that i am often asked about by visitors, is where to get hold on non french wine - you can be stuck beyond the usual brands of Concha y Toro or Jacobs Creek. There are some great wine shops, but again you have to know where they are.
Best places for international wines: The Auchan supermarket chain, particuarly at Bordeaux Lac, has a good range.
My favourite smaller shop is Cousin on Place de Parlement (05 56 01 20 23 www.cousin.fr/home.php)
Also a good range at Badie on Allees de Tourny (05 56 52 23 72)
wine bars
For a wine city, Bordeaux is pretty much barren when it comes to wine bars. They are there, but you need to know where to look.
An addition from last year is L'Essentiel in St Emilion (6, rue Guadet, 05 57 24 39 76) – I think the only place in the area where you can buy so many amazing wines by the glass, including Ausone 97 and Cheval Blanc 99. It's owned by Jean-Luc Thunevin of Chateau Valandraut (www.thunevin.com), so not suprising that it's so innovative, but it's really very much 'new bordeaux'!
other good ones:
One good choice for cocktails is the Dame de Shanghai (Bassin à Flot N° 1, Hangar G2, Bacalan 05 57 10 20 50), an old tanker transformed by Bordeaux interior designer Jean Do into a 1930s Shanghai drinking and dining den. Don’t expect authentic Chinese food, but excellent Asian fusion, and a downstairs bar with djs til 4am, Wednesday to Saturday.
Out of town, St Emilion suffers from the tourist malaise that means many of its restaurants don’t try too hard for repeat business. An excellent exception to this, besides L'Essentiel mentioned above, is L’Envers du Décor (5 rue Clocher, St Emilion 05 57 74 40 61). The bar here is wide, with wooden stools along one side, right in the centre of this bustling restaurant, and has one of the widest selections of wine by the glass you’ll find in the region. Ask for a plate of salami and cheese, and while away a few hours.
Heading to the coast, Le Bistrot du Bassin (5, rue des Pionniers, Cap Ferret 05 56 60 60 63) offers a chic watering hole to the inhabitants of Cap Ferret (or “Ferret” if you want to fit in with the locals). The accompanying hotel, La Maison du Bassin, is usually booked up well in advance, but the bar and restaurant are open to the public, and besides offering the expectedly fresh seafood, the bar (both inside and outside) has an excellent range of cocktails, is open till 2am, and serves Spanish tapas to help you build up a thirst. Not open all year, though, so check first.
Back in Bordeaux, for a more decadent outing, ‘Le Grand 16’ champagne bar is upstairs at the wonderful Jardin d’Ausone (10 rue Ausone, Bordeaux 05 56 79 30 30), again in downtown Bordeaux by Porte Cailhau. Champagne bars are hard to find in this city beholden to red wine, and this one mixes slightly chintzy décor with a bar entirely dedicated to bubbly, above a restaurant with the brilliant idea of serving all their food in either full or half portions. The owner is 29-year old Laurent Vialette, owner of the equally-excellent Rue Ausone wine shop a few steps away.
